Performance in the Local Village, Zambezia, Mozambique

A delay in writing means I haven't posted further pictures and stories of the Mozambique trip in October.  Here are some in retrospect.

About to start

I was in my Othello costume with the other members of the cast in the late afternoon sunlight surrounded by 300 villagers of the tiny remote village of Serefina with it's traditional wattle & daub huts and roads of sand in rural Mozambique. We had come down to the village to try and film our show, The Gospel of Othello as we haven't got it properly taped. Since our version of Shakespeare's story takes place during a tribal assembly it was amazing to be in a setting that resembled the scenario almost exactly.

The Gospel of Othello opening in a perfect setting

Our stay happened to coincide with a visit by National Geographic photographer Marcus Westberg who has kindly let me reproduce the photos he took of the show and audience here.  www.lifethroughalens.org for more of his work.

Patrice making the most of the light as the sun sank low

Waiting to start I had another moment of 'how exactly did I come to be here?'  I get this every so often, usually as I find myself in another brilliantly random scenario where you could never pin down an exact 'career choice' or strategy which led me to be there.  Don't get me wrong - no soul-searching or lack of clear 'career' means I don't feel extremely lucky to be doing what I'm doing.  If you try to classify the last 5 years from a career perspective, I guess it's roughly termed 'freelance.'  And that's putting it kindly.  One occupational hazard is lacking a well-defined job description which can sometimes make hard to measure success or if you're on (or at least near the) the right track!) at a given moment.

Standing there in the randomness of that moment, I had such a profound sense of everything being so 'right' as if this is what I was created for!  Such moments of alignment and clarity amid a generally out-the-box existance are even more precious and golden.  

Musical director & keyboard set-up

As a company we were interested to see what affect the language barrier would have (assuming fairly large) but because our narrative is very physical and there's much non-verbal dialogue as a way of expressing the tale. Led by our director, we have worked a lot on physicalities. We were intrigued to see how much of our story would translate if not via the threads of Elizabethan English that also run through the piece. In our our text we also have Ndebele, Shona, and English plus music and songs from those, as well as other West African languages.

As performers it was a challenge to see if we could hold the audience (there were about 400 people of all ages) gathered. It was a great atmosphere and required fresh and dynamic acting and storytelling.  It's truly interactive. 

Audience

It's sharing of theatre and story, it's human connection, it's entering into the spirit of generosity and giving and receiving.  I love it.  For me it's the best feeling ever. Afterwards we realised that, 45 km through the coconut plantations from the next town, it was likely that we were the first theatre company ever to have performed there. What a privilege.

Despite language barriers the audience kept growing

Groups assembling to share and tell a story is exactly what I'm about. Coming together despite the language barrier and numerous other factors to participate in a creative experience.

To the sponsors who have backed this and continue to see the value and merit of what we're about and what we do, a huge thank you.

Mozambique

Am writing this over 10days into our creative bootcamp with The Hothaus in Mozambique.  (don't know when I'll be able to post it as the internet connection hasn't been very strong.)  I didn't manage to write from the 2 day (and 2000km) journey to get here, however it was largely uneventful - in a good way!  We set off a day late, due to a couple of complications, but then all went well and we crossed the border fine.

Early morning repack by the side of the road - we travelled hours without seeing another vehicle 

There's something about crossing a national boundary that is always interesting. I've crossed many in my time and always notice it. Especially when it's into a country you're visiting for the first time as this was for me. 

Scenes from the 2000km journey

Immediately it's different in terms of language and buildings. More colourful than Zimbabwe too. We stayed the night at the Pink Papaya Lodge in Chimoio. 10 of us in a dorm on bunk beds (as you do). Mine was especially rickety but fortunately, no unfortunate incident there, although the 4am departure was delayed due to one guy needing to leave a note explaining that the collapse of his bunk (luckily a bottom one!) genuinely wasn't due to anything he did!

After a 15hr drive where you definitely felt you were getting increasingly more and more remote we finally arrived at Quelimane and from there were met and followed the route to Zalala Beach Lodge. It's about 45km through coconut plantations and feels pretty remote. 

From our base at Zalala Beach Lodge, the nearest village is 3 km away (where for the first 10 days we have had most of our meals) and is a traditional rural village. I realise it's been a long time since I spent time in a more rural environment. It's good for me!

Hothaus Girls on arrival

Food has been alternate traditional meals of rice, sadza, beans or potatoes with chicken or fish. A personal high has been the occasions we've had fresh prawns – normally for breakfast and accompanied by a coconut. I've just eaten my first fresh coconut – and discovered it's not milk but water inside. That was a discovery I made once I'd (finally) managed to break into it!

The ladies who cook for us with our (v fresh!) lunch

So this is all fuel for the work.

So far, we've been working hard in various ways, working out and warming up with many dances, games and songs. We've done karate on the beach, then exercises in impro and dance etc. We've been swopping stories and using those as a basis for devising new material. It's interesting what themes have emerged and also what an intense, focused work-time can do.

Our work-space base for the first 10 days' work

Working on a particular exercise 

Within this environment I'm reminded just how much talent there is in our group.  Watching actors try out new ideas, especially physicalities as we work to divise a non-verbal language and  dialogue, and seeing the results as new characters and voices emerge has been great.

In terms of the potential we have, it seems we're just getting started.  For this reason it's great to have a concerted opportunity to devise and experiment and see where it leads us.

Movement Music on the beach at dusk!

Transitioning & Transiting

Here I am, writing from the Mozambican Embassy in Harare. I'm waiting for my passport to get a visa to enter Mozambique. I could probably get one at the border, however what with travelling as a group and being the only Brit in need of visa, we thought best to do in advance. I had communications with the embassy by phone and travelled up from Bulawayo this morning. I gather normally it takes 24hrs to process, however by phone the representative offered to turn it around within a couple of hours given I was driving up from Bulawayo. Then when I arrived just before 1pm, I discovered they normally close for visa sumissions at 12pm. Nevertheless they let me go ahead and submit for a 90min turnaround. From what I've seen of Mozambique (and Mozambican's) so far, they're kind! And I haven't yet set foot over the border...

Chatting with the desk manager about my trip, he seemed interested that I'm travelling with a theatre group to experience and share Mozambican culture and creativity. Then he insisted I meet “Mozambique's ambassador to Bulawayo” a dignified elderly man who has lived in Mpopoma in Bulawayo since 1949! Again the prospect of our trip seemed to to trigger the imagination (and some wise nodding of the head). Whatever this is...it's an adventure! 6 hours til our scheduled departure on our 2 day and 2,000km, journey by road (on a bus) to Zalala Beach Lodge, on the outskirts of Supinho, a small fishing village, approximately 40kms north of Quelimane, the provincial capital on the central northern coast of Mozambique.

We'll be devising and experimenting with new material as a group, and also interacting with those around us in local communities using performance and theatre.

Today was spent frustratingly chasing different errands, all of which seemed to end fruitlessly. I forget how it can be... But then, the gang from Bulawayo arrived into Harare armed with provisions and solidarity and warmth and I felt suddenly better. And part of a team, I guess.

So I find I'm off to a new country for 3 weeks. I've only been back in Bulawayo 3 weeks and all the comings and goings, leavings and arrivings can be unsettling. I even researched 'culture shock' to find out some of the facts to what I was experiencing. It's a funny one – largely characterised by chronic overuse of the word 'different' (in my experience!) and not being quite sure where you 'are' exactly.

More soon. Maybe even from the bus!

Day One of Life

One day old: Michelle with her baby girl

It's been a good day.  Amazing privilege to have been there during someone's first full day on planet earth and to be alongside while someone takes their first steps into motherhood.  Michelle's baby was born yesterday afternoon at Central Hospital, Bulawayo.  She's little, weighing 2.4kg/5lb 3oz and beautiful.

I visited this morning to take some breakfast in for her and I climbed the (very worn out) staircase to the second floor.  In doing so, I passed several delivery rooms and caught sight of many women in the wards holding bundles in blankets.  I entered room number 2 and as I scanned it, working out which bed to cross to, I heard 'Aunty Izzy!' which helped no end!  First I checked how Michelle was doing, which seemed amazingly well.  She looked very peaceful and seemed strong.  Then I met the newborn.  She's tiny! Especially in relation to the large blanket she was in. 

I went back later to collect them both and bring them home.  That time as I was walking along the corridor a door opened ahead of me and a nurse came through holding a baby out in front of her - literally just delivered.  The door was still half open as I passed showing a glimpse of the mother.  The starkness of being so close to life beginning wasn't lost on me.  I realised possibly even the mother hadn't yet seen that baby! I was one of the first people to set eyes on a unique new person.  Everything seemed a lot more immediate and in your face (literally) in that maternity ward.

Throughout the day I took some photo's for Michelle to remember her daughter's first hours.  Here are a few of those:

Michelle

Too long since I last updated. But here's one piece of news. Last night Michelle, one of the girls living at the Precious Life farm, arrived to stay with us. Aged 15, she is 9mths pregnant and her due date is almost here. I've known Michelle for the last four months and she hasn't been exactly over the moon about being pregnant. For starters the pregnancy is the result of a rape. In fact for most of the pregnancy she intended to give the baby up for adoption. Agnes Kwenda (PLF founder) has been supporting and encouraging her to attend sessions with a trained counsellor while part of Precious Life. 

I saw Michelle on Monday, during my regular weekly visit to the farm and then it was great to welcome her to ours last night. Nomsa helped her settle in. Agnes asked me to get a nice photo of her that we could use to make a start on a baby album.  Unfortunately I missed the boat on that one, and less than 12hrs later she went into labour and is currently at the hospital with regular, close contractions.  We wait to hear news and then to bring her and the baby home to be with us for 6 weeks or so.  The first few hours and days will be vital in terms of Michelle's decision whether she wishes to keep the baby or whether she wishes to see him/her adopted.  Together we hope to support her in whatever decision she makes.  I just hope and pray for these first few hours of this new little person's life which I am sure will play a huge part in his/her future.  In particular if & how Michelle bonds with the baby.  

Once again it's got me thinking about the importance and privilege of being there alongside people as they face tough choices and difficult dilemmas.  It's not for us to decide but I think there is a role to play in supporting and trying to show them they are not completely alone.  I have two other friends also due to have their first babies any time now.  Each of them, incredibly unique and precious. 

Will update again soon...

Toshiba You Magazine Article

Back in February I posted some photos I had taken and then sent to computer company Toshiba.  I sent a short story about what one of their laptops gets used for after watching the girls at the Precious Life farm enjoying cartoons on my laptop.  It made me think how everyday, ordinary things can be used to be part of something larger and positive and that there's a story in it.  

They asked if they could run something on it in their magazine.  Various email and Skype communications later, this article is in the May edition of Toshiba's YOU magazine.  In exchange they have agreed to donate a laptop which is great news.

Sewing At PLF

In February the ladies at the Precious Life Farm started on a longer-term sewing project in partnership with Sibo, a lovely lady who lives on the neighbouring farm.  Sibo's a skilled seamstress and is happy to hold sewing sessions with the PL ladies twice a week round her dining table.  

Sibo leading the first lesson

She's put together a lesson plan with the aim that within a few months everyone will have built up a range of sewing skills and will have made two garments - one by hand and one by machine - using what they've learned.  

A demo on the embroidery machine

I was there for the first few weeks where we started with some basics and made pin-cushions and bags.  I'm excited to see where the group will be up to by the time I get back from Harare in a few weeks time - I imagine they will have long overtaken me! 

One Thursday some friends, Amy and Bella, were visiting Bulawayo and joined our session.  Amy had brought some lovely fabrics with her which everyone enjoyed using.    

Thanks also to Femina Garments in Bulawayo and to the fabric shops in Bulawayo who have donated offcuts and fabric to PLF for this project.  We appreciate it!